Grüner Veltliner / Riesling 2017 Arndorfer ‘Vorgeschmack White’ Kamptal, Austria
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Martin & Anna Arndorfer are not only the loveliest people that I have the pleasure of working with, but they are also producing some of the most exciting wines coming out of Austria.
Sebastian Crowther, Master Sommelier
Grüner Veltliner (GROO-ner VEHLT-ly-ner) is the most widely planted variety in Austria and most certainly the grape they would hang their hat’s on. This wine offers incredible value for money and is a great example of what the new wave of wines coming out of this country is all about. If Austria’s not on your radar, it should be!
The Kamptal is located about an hour’s drive from Vienna and gets its name from the river Kamp which is a tributary of the Danube River, one of the great rivers of Europe.
Martin Arndorfer comes from a long line of winemakers and grew up in the cellars and vineyard which he now works as his own. His wife, Anna, is the daughter of Karl Steininger, one of the most respected winemakers in Austria. Together they have work hard over the last decade to create wines for us. Martin has worked in may cellars around the globe, but was most inspired while in Italy. It’s his worldly experiences that has helped shape his philosophy today.
Vorgeschmack means ‘taste’ or ‘appetiser’ and the Arndorfer’s use this term as a way to tell you that this is the introduction to their wines. The Grüner Veltliner for this wine is planted from 1960 to 2012 all planted in a local soil called loess. This soil is considered the best for this variety. The Riesling is planted from 1989 to 2008. It’s planted in a combination of loess & primary rock soil at an altitude from 214m to 360m.
For this wine the grapes are harvested together and pressed together. Co-fermentation takes place after 10hr of maceration, this helps to add texture and intensity of flavour to the wine. The fermentation takes place, mainly, in large very old oak barrels. These impart no flavour. A small amount, roughly 20% is fermented in stainless steel vats.
Cristal clear and vibrant in colour this wine shine and makes you want to start tasting immediately! The nose is lifted without being too intense, it offers aromas of custard apple, ripe pear and pineapple. This fruit is backed by some savoury non-fruits in the form of aniseed, pepper and radish. The palate is blisteringly energetic while still being juicy and super slurpable. Green apple, fresh herbs and a stony minerality are the drivers. Clean as a whistle on the finish. It’s a wine I’d like to see served between 8ºC – 10ºC in a Riesling glass or a versatile white wine stem. While this wine could easy be enjoyed on the patio during a hot summer day, I think it would be nice alongside some seafood, I’m thinking Whitebait & dill mayo and lots of it. Happy drinking!